The name of this harbour sounds a bit strange, does it not?
It is the harbour where the ships were loaded with the chalk that came from the limestone quarry in Faxe, a town about 6 Km from here.
The limestone deposits are 63 million years old and apparently still contain many fossils. We are going to stay here tomorrow and cycle to the quarries, which are still being 'mined' (the chalk factory is near the harbour here). There is also a museum there.
We'll report (with pictures) tomorrow.
The rumours are that the weather, which has been quite unsettled but not bad the last 10 days or so, is going to improve with more sun and higher temperatures. Let's hope that this is true. Today was good from a wind point of view, but we arrived at the tail end of a heavy rain shower and we had another shower with thunder and wind at the end of the afternoon.
This is "Onbekommerd"!
Thursday, July 19, 2012
Wednesday, July 18, 2012
Stege
Stege (on Møns) is a medieval market town. As often, the brochures somewhat overstate its attractiveness, but it is nice enough and has some interesting features.
Firstly, there is the church of St. Hans. Really, There is a church named after me here! Except that it was founded in 1240...
But a nice church it certainly is. As in all churches we have seen in Denmark so far, there is a model of a ship suspended from the ceiling:
There are nice frescos to be seen:
And after visiting the church we found a brewery:
......where we sampled the product:
Not sure what tomorrow will bring. If its nice, we will carry on to Fakse Ladepladsen. But, as always, it depends on the weather.
Firstly, there is the church of St. Hans. Really, There is a church named after me here! Except that it was founded in 1240...
But a nice church it certainly is. As in all churches we have seen in Denmark so far, there is a model of a ship suspended from the ceiling:
There are nice frescos to be seen:
And after visiting the church we found a brewery:
......where we sampled the product:
Not sure what tomorrow will bring. If its nice, we will carry on to Fakse Ladepladsen. But, as always, it depends on the weather.
Location:Dybsbrostræde,Stege,Denmark
Tuesday, July 17, 2012
Sjælland
This morning started quite early with a lot of activity. The wind had dropped quite a bit and by 7:30 the first boats were leaving. Even the neighbour's dog was ready to go:
In a 12 to maybe 17 knot wind we made our way to Vordingborg, our first stop on Sjælland. That is the island that Copenhagen is on as well. Although we officially don't have a plan or a schedule, you need to have some idea of where you are heading, so that idea is to be in Copenhagen for Lyn's birthday on the 28th. It looks likely that we'll be there, but again, it's not a 'requirement'.
With all the islands, Denmark is of course also the country of big bridges. This is one linking Sjælland with Falster:
The approach to Vordingborg is quite attractive:
The tower you see is the Goose Tower, so called because it has a golden goose on the top. The original goose was installed there by King Valdemar Atterdag in 1364. The current one dates from 1871. The Goose Tower is the only remaining bit of one of Valdemar's nine castles, there are also some ruins which are in the process of being restored (a bit, it seems).
Weather permitting, we will go to Stege tomorrow.
In a 12 to maybe 17 knot wind we made our way to Vordingborg, our first stop on Sjælland. That is the island that Copenhagen is on as well. Although we officially don't have a plan or a schedule, you need to have some idea of where you are heading, so that idea is to be in Copenhagen for Lyn's birthday on the 28th. It looks likely that we'll be there, but again, it's not a 'requirement'.
With all the islands, Denmark is of course also the country of big bridges. This is one linking Sjælland with Falster:
The approach to Vordingborg is quite attractive:
The tower you see is the Goose Tower, so called because it has a golden goose on the top. The original goose was installed there by King Valdemar Atterdag in 1364. The current one dates from 1871. The Goose Tower is the only remaining bit of one of Valdemar's nine castles, there are also some ruins which are in the process of being restored (a bit, it seems).
Weather permitting, we will go to Stege tomorrow.
Location:Nordhavnsvej,Vordingborg,Denmark
Monday, July 16, 2012
The 'anti-squeaks'.
It has been blowing hard today. A steady 6Bft, with gusts up to 8. For the South Africans: between 25 and 35 knots. So not many boats left the protective environment of Femø harbour. Only late in the afternoon, when the rain shower activity and hence the gusts diminished, did a motorboat (who, according to public opinion did not understand what he was doing) and 2 sailing yachts go out. Only one boat arrived. The restaurant in the nearby village offers free transport from and to the harbour for customers and it appeared that this was a popular service. We had a quiet day, Lyn did a lot of work and played the piano, I sorted through over 500 pictures that we jointly took since 12 June in Fedderwardersiel.
One problem with this wind is that the boat pulls on the front mooring lines. With every pull (and that means every 2 or 3 seconds), there is a 'squeak', caused by the tight lines rubbing on the cuts in the gunwale. That does not sound too serious (and it is not!), but inside the front cabin it is a pretty loud noise. And the pulling on the lines also reduces the lifespan thereof.
There is a solution for this, which every self-respecting boatie in this environment uses. It's officially called a 'mooring line compensator', but we call it the 'anti squeaks'. Here they are:
Rubber fittings, around which you wind your mooring lines two or three times. The construction is such that the compensator 'grabs' the line at both ends, and when the boat 'pulls', the compensator stretches, taking most of the strain. The result is no 'squeak', so a good night's rest.
I had seen these useful gadgets a few times before, but not like here, where they are an essential part of the boat's equipment because almost all harbours have mostly 'boxes' to moor in, plus are relatively exposed to the wind.
We bought our first two anti-squeaks in Kappeln a few weeks ago and an extra (heavy duty) one in Svendborg last week.
The forecast for tomorrow promises lighter winds, especially in the morning, so the expectation is a general exodus quite early.
One problem with this wind is that the boat pulls on the front mooring lines. With every pull (and that means every 2 or 3 seconds), there is a 'squeak', caused by the tight lines rubbing on the cuts in the gunwale. That does not sound too serious (and it is not!), but inside the front cabin it is a pretty loud noise. And the pulling on the lines also reduces the lifespan thereof.
There is a solution for this, which every self-respecting boatie in this environment uses. It's officially called a 'mooring line compensator', but we call it the 'anti squeaks'. Here they are:
Rubber fittings, around which you wind your mooring lines two or three times. The construction is such that the compensator 'grabs' the line at both ends, and when the boat 'pulls', the compensator stretches, taking most of the strain. The result is no 'squeak', so a good night's rest.
I had seen these useful gadgets a few times before, but not like here, where they are an essential part of the boat's equipment because almost all harbours have mostly 'boxes' to moor in, plus are relatively exposed to the wind.
We bought our first two anti-squeaks in Kappeln a few weeks ago and an extra (heavy duty) one in Svendborg last week.
The forecast for tomorrow promises lighter winds, especially in the morning, so the expectation is a general exodus quite early.
Sunday, July 15, 2012
A much better place!
A one hour trip this morning, brought us to Femø, which is indeed much better than Fejø. The harbour is well maintained, the sanitary facilities are clean (and the showers free, which is unique to Denmark so far!). The wifi Internet is fast and there is a small supermarket right at the harbour.
So as a result, the harbour is packed. And with the wind approaching 20 knots it's interesting to see more people arriving and trying to tie up their boats safely. Sometimes, the dinghy is used to get a mooring line to a post across the harbour:
We just hope no one will come in late tonight and hit that line, but that's unlikely. It is helpful to get to these small harbours by 2 pm, after that it is hoping you'll get a nice berth.
Apart from the harbour, the island seems nice as well:
Quite a bit of agriculture here. We saw a number of tractors, one going onto the ferry to the mainland.
As mentioned yesterday, the forecast for tomorrow is that there will be plenty of wind. Looking out from Onbekommerd's cabin over the sea, and feeling the pull on the mooring lines, it's quite likely that we'll be here tomorrow as well.
If anyone wants a map of our Denmark trip so far, please leave a comment and I will send you a link (I'll remove any email addresses from the comments before I post them). I'll also see if I can add that map to the blog, but that might take some time.
So as a result, the harbour is packed. And with the wind approaching 20 knots it's interesting to see more people arriving and trying to tie up their boats safely. Sometimes, the dinghy is used to get a mooring line to a post across the harbour:
We just hope no one will come in late tonight and hit that line, but that's unlikely. It is helpful to get to these small harbours by 2 pm, after that it is hoping you'll get a nice berth.
Apart from the harbour, the island seems nice as well:
Quite a bit of agriculture here. We saw a number of tractors, one going onto the ferry to the mainland.
As mentioned yesterday, the forecast for tomorrow is that there will be plenty of wind. Looking out from Onbekommerd's cabin over the sea, and feeling the pull on the mooring lines, it's quite likely that we'll be here tomorrow as well.
If anyone wants a map of our Denmark trip so far, please leave a comment and I will send you a link (I'll remove any email addresses from the comments before I post them). I'll also see if I can add that map to the blog, but that might take some time.
Saturday, July 14, 2012
Every day is different from what you think it will be!
One of the great aspects of our life on Onbekommerd is that each day is different from the previous one. Not only are we more often than not in a different harbour, but living so close to nature you are very aware of the differences in weather for instance.
But in addition to that, you cannot predict at all what the day will bring. Yesterday, our stop at Omø was more or less forced upon us: the combination of the weather, the distances to the possible choices of destinations as well as the fact that it is usually not a good idea to arrive much after 4 or preferably 3 to secure a good berth all pointed towards Omø. And it turned out to be one of the nicest places we have been in quite a long time!
For today's destination, we had studied the books and pilots. Which of the islands in the Smålandsfarvandet to visit first? It all pointed to Fejø, supposedly so good that it is often overcrowded. So by 8:30 we were on our way, as it was a 4 hour trip. When we arrived at 12:30, we wondered where the crowds were. The harbour is dilapidated and in serious need of repair. Apart from toilets, a few plug points and an old water hose, no services to speak of. The kiosk where you can usually buy ice cream and bread rolls in the morning has been closed for a long time. And now, at 10 pm, no harbour master has been to collect a fee (and no machine where you can pay - like in many harbours - either).
When we walked into the (equally dead) town, we were told that there is no money to maintain the harbour. But that means no guests, no ice cream sales, no customers in the supermarket and therefore no income. 40 or more spending yachts on Omø yesterday, maybe 5 tonight here. And it's a bigger island too...
Tomorrow, we plan to go to neighbouring Femø, just a few miles away. People here in the harbour tell us it's a better place than Fejø. We shall see. At the moment the forecast for Monday is not all that great, so a one day layover there is on the cards.
But in addition to that, you cannot predict at all what the day will bring. Yesterday, our stop at Omø was more or less forced upon us: the combination of the weather, the distances to the possible choices of destinations as well as the fact that it is usually not a good idea to arrive much after 4 or preferably 3 to secure a good berth all pointed towards Omø. And it turned out to be one of the nicest places we have been in quite a long time!
For today's destination, we had studied the books and pilots. Which of the islands in the Smålandsfarvandet to visit first? It all pointed to Fejø, supposedly so good that it is often overcrowded. So by 8:30 we were on our way, as it was a 4 hour trip. When we arrived at 12:30, we wondered where the crowds were. The harbour is dilapidated and in serious need of repair. Apart from toilets, a few plug points and an old water hose, no services to speak of. The kiosk where you can usually buy ice cream and bread rolls in the morning has been closed for a long time. And now, at 10 pm, no harbour master has been to collect a fee (and no machine where you can pay - like in many harbours - either).
When we walked into the (equally dead) town, we were told that there is no money to maintain the harbour. But that means no guests, no ice cream sales, no customers in the supermarket and therefore no income. 40 or more spending yachts on Omø yesterday, maybe 5 tonight here. And it's a bigger island too...
Tomorrow, we plan to go to neighbouring Femø, just a few miles away. People here in the harbour tell us it's a better place than Fejø. We shall see. At the moment the forecast for Monday is not all that great, so a one day layover there is on the cards.
Friday, July 13, 2012
The washing powder island??
As predicted, the weather yesterday was not all that nice, so we decided to stay tied up in Lohals. Of course, you are not alone in a decision like that: virtually all of the 'sailing family' has the same views about the weather, so no-one left and no-one arrived. But a few had the same idea as us and took the bus to Rudkøbing, the biggest town on Langeland, about a 45 minute bus ride away. Rudkøbings main claim to fame is that H.C. Ørsted was born here, you undoubtedly know that he discovered electromagnetism ;-).
Here he is:
Otherwise, Rudkøbing was not all that interesting, but we DID have a hamburger and chips there, which is worth mentioning as we can't really remember having a hamburger this year yet (but we did have nice Danish chips in Svendborg a few days ago).
This morning, the weather was a lot friendlier and as a result there was a mass exodus from the town of Lohals.
We crossed the Støre Bælt, the waterway between Fyn and Sjælland. This is quite a busy stretch of water, with a few major shipping routes going under the impressive bridge which links the islands. The wind was quite light, about 12 knots max., but there was still quite a bit of very confused chop from the stronger winds of the last few days and the result was that it was like going through a washing machine, waves all over the place. After 2 hours, we arrived on the island of Omø, hence the lame joke as the title of this post. Sorry!
But Omø is very nice, with a very friendly 'feel' to it and a nice international atmosphere around the harbour. Our neighbours are Scottish, but live near Berlin, there are also Swedish, Norwegian, German, Dutch and of course Danish flags around.
We did our usual 'recce' and came across this nice house:
Tomorrow, the weather is supposed to be reasonably kind again, and we'll go further into the Smålandsfarvandet, the water between Sjælland and Lolland. We are now just over 11 degrees East of Greenwich and over 55 degrees North.
Here he is:
Otherwise, Rudkøbing was not all that interesting, but we DID have a hamburger and chips there, which is worth mentioning as we can't really remember having a hamburger this year yet (but we did have nice Danish chips in Svendborg a few days ago).
This morning, the weather was a lot friendlier and as a result there was a mass exodus from the town of Lohals.
We crossed the Støre Bælt, the waterway between Fyn and Sjælland. This is quite a busy stretch of water, with a few major shipping routes going under the impressive bridge which links the islands. The wind was quite light, about 12 knots max., but there was still quite a bit of very confused chop from the stronger winds of the last few days and the result was that it was like going through a washing machine, waves all over the place. After 2 hours, we arrived on the island of Omø, hence the lame joke as the title of this post. Sorry!
But Omø is very nice, with a very friendly 'feel' to it and a nice international atmosphere around the harbour. Our neighbours are Scottish, but live near Berlin, there are also Swedish, Norwegian, German, Dutch and of course Danish flags around.
We did our usual 'recce' and came across this nice house:
Tomorrow, the weather is supposed to be reasonably kind again, and we'll go further into the Smålandsfarvandet, the water between Sjælland and Lolland. We are now just over 11 degrees East of Greenwich and over 55 degrees North.
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